Hoodie programmes often stall on one question: terry or fleece? The words are used loosely, and the gap in price, weight and performance is easy to get wrong. This guide settles French terry vs fleece on construction, warmth, GSM, printing, washing and sourcing, with 3-end fleece as the heavyweight reference. It is written for garment factories, buying-house vendors and private-label brands who need to pick a fabric and put it into a tech pack.
Key takeaways
- The finish decides the fabric. Unbrushed loops are French terry; brushed loops are fleece.
- Fleece is warmer and heavier. French terry is cooler, flatter and breathes better.
- Fawtex lists 2-end fleece at 240 to 320 GSM and 3-end fleece at 300 to 420+ GSM, with brushed fleece, French terry loop and peach finish options.
- Heavier fabric gives fewer metres per kg, so compare cost per garment, not only price per kg, when weighing French terry vs fleece.
- Pick by garment and climate: terry for light hoodies and warm markets, 3-end fleece for heavyweight hoodies and winter lines.
French terry vs fleece at a glance
| Specification | French terry | Fleece (brushed) | 3-end fleece |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back of fabric | Unbrushed loops | Brushed pile | Brushed pile, deeper |
| Warmth | Low to medium | Medium to high | High |
| Breathability | Good | Moderate | Lower |
| Weight at Fawtex | Specified by finish | 2-end 240 to 320 GSM | 300 to 420+ GSM |
| Handfeel | Flat, cool, dry | Soft, plush | Plush, full-bodied |
| Best season | Spring, autumn, warm markets | Autumn, winter | Winter, heavyweight |
Construction: the finish decides, not only the thread count
Both fabrics are loop-backed knits. In the knitting machine, yarn forms a flat face on one side and loops on the other. What happens next separates the two. If the loops are left as they are, you have French terry, also called loopback fleece in some markets. If the loops are brushed so the fibres lift into a pile, you have fleece.
This matters when comparing brushed fleece vs French terry, and for any French terry vs fleece quote. A supplier can often knit the same base structure and finish it either way, which is why Fawtex lists brushed fleece, French terry loop and peach finish as options on its fleece range rather than as separate fabrics.
2 thread vs 3 thread fleece
Thread count is the other source of confusion in French terry vs fleece sourcing. It describes how many yarns build the structure. A 2-thread (2-end) fabric uses a face yarn and a loop yarn. A 3-thread (3-end) fabric adds a third yarn that binds the thick fleece yarn into the face. The extra yarn gives more weight and a deeper pile. If you want the detail, read what 3-end fleece is. In short, many 2-thread fabrics can be finished as French terry or as fleece, while 3-end fleece is usually chosen when you want the heavy, brushed result.
Warmth and breathability in French terry vs fleece
Brushing creates a layer of air-trapping fibres, so fleece insulates more. Unbrushed loops leave the back flatter and more open, so French terry vs fleece in the same weight will usually feel cooler and release moisture more easily. For travel retail, gym wear and layering in mild climates, terry is easier to wear. For a streetwear hoodie meant for cold months, a brushed 3-end fleece gives the warmth and visual weight customers expect.
Weight and GSM: the real numbers
Weight is where the two fabrics are most often confused. These are the Fawtex ranges, with the ounce conversion (GSM divided by 33.906):
| Construction | GSM range | Ounces per sq yd |
|---|---|---|
| 2-end fleece | 240 to 320 | 7.1 to 9.4 |
| 3-end fleece | 300 to 420+ | 8.8 to 12.4+ |
Weight changes yardage. At a finished width of 1.5 m, 1 kg of 250 GSM fabric gives about 2.7 metres, while 1 kg of 400 GSM gives about 1.7 metres. A heavier hoodie therefore consumes more kilograms of fabric per garment. Our fleece fabric GSM guide explains how to pick weight by garment.
When you compare terry vs fleece quotes, line up three variables: GSM, width and finish. A quote for a 280 GSM French terry and a quote for a 380 GSM fleece cannot be compared per kg until you convert both to cost per garment. Ask your pattern team for the kilograms of fabric used per dozen, then multiply by each price per kg.
Print, embroidery and wash performance
- Screen printing and transfers: the face decides print quality. A clean, even face prints well on terry or fleece. Heavy brushing can release lint on the back, so test your print method on a production sample.
- Embroidery: denser, heavier fabrics generally support larger or higher-stitch designs with less puckering. Light terry usually needs more backing and care.
- Washing: a brushed pile can matt or pill if yarn and finish are poor, while open loops can snag. Both depend more on yarn quality and finishing than on the name of the fabric.
- Shrinkage: agree limits in length and width and the test method before bulk, whichever fabric you choose.
Cost per kg and sourcing implications of French terry vs fleece
Fabric is usually bought by the kilogram, so the question is less "which is cheaper per kg" and more "which gives the right garment at the right cost". Three things shape the answer:
- Yarn quantity. A 3-end build holds more yarn per square metre than a lighter loop, which increases fabric weight per garment.
- Process route. Brushing is an extra finishing step compared with leaving loops unbrushed.
- Order size and terms. Quantity, colour count and FOB or CIF terms change the quote more than the fabric name does.
Fawtex does not publish a price list, because quotes are built around your specification. See the pricing page for how it works, and our guide to wholesale fleece fabric for MOQs, lead times and shipping terms. Recycled yarn can be specified in either finish, so French terry vs fleece does not have to decide your sustainability story.
3 end fleece vs French terry: when each one wins
3 end fleece wins when the garment needs weight, warmth and a plush back: a heavyweight hoodie, a winter jogger or an oversized style that must hold its shape. It is the stronger choice for cold markets such as the UK and northern US, where customers judge a hoodie by how substantial it feels.
French terry wins when the garment needs to breathe or when weight and shipping volume matter: a spring sweatshirt, a lightweight hoodie for a warm climate or a layering piece. If your range covers both, many brands pair a French terry basic with a 3-end fleece winter hero. The French terry vs fleece decision is then about ranging, not about quality.
Which should you choose by garment?
| Garment | Suggested starting point | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight hoodie | French terry loop, or 2-end at the lower GSM end | Cooler, flatter, easier to wear in mild weather |
| Heavyweight hoodie | 3-end brushed fleece, around 350 to 420+ GSM | Body, warmth and a premium hand |
| Joggers | 2-end brushed, or terry loop for warm markets | Balance of comfort and weight |
| Tracksuit | 2-end brushed fleece | Soft inside, manageable weight for sets |
| Uniform or workwear | 2-end or 3-end by climate | Match warmth to working conditions |
| Oversized streetwear | 3-end brushed fleece | Holds shape and drapes with weight |
Treat these as starting points and confirm with samples. Sectors are listed on the industries page, and the 2-end fleece page gives the lighter alternative.
How to avoid mix-ups when sourcing French terry vs fleece
Because suppliers use the terms loosely, put these safeguards in the order:
- Name the finish. Write "brushed" or "unbrushed loop" next to the construction, not just "terry" or "fleece".
- Name the weight basis. State whether GSM is greige or finished, and agree a tolerance.
- Approve a back-side swatch. Ask for a sample that shows the back clearly, since the back is what separates the two fabrics.
- Fix yarn counts. Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel different if the yarn counts differ.
Finish options at Fawtex
Fawtex offers three finishes across its 2-end and 3-end fleece: brushed fleece, French terry loop and peach finish, with Pantone lab-dip colour matching. Availability by construction should be confirmed in your quote. For US buyers weighing a recycled option, the recycled fleece fabric supplier USA page outlines supply and terms.
Frequently asked questions about French terry vs fleece
Is fleece warmer than French terry?
In French terry vs fleece, fleece is usually warmer. Brushing lifts the fibres into a pile that traps air, so fleece insulates better than French terry of a similar weight. French terry has unbrushed loops, which feel cooler and breathe more easily, so it suits milder conditions.
Is French terry the same as 2-thread fleece?
They often share a similar two-yarn loopback structure. The difference is finish: leave the loops unbrushed and you have French terry, brush them and you have fleece. Because the names overlap in French terry vs fleece discussions, specify both the construction and the finish in your tech pack.
Which is better for screen printing, terry or fleece?
The face decides print quality, so both can print well when the face is clean and even. Heavily brushed fleece can release lint, so test your print method on a production sample, and heavier fabrics often handle large prints and embroidery with less distortion.
Can the same knit be brushed or left as terry?
Often, yes. Many loopback knits can be finished as brushed fleece or left as French terry loop. Fawtex lists brushed fleece, French terry loop and peach finish as options on its range, and the quote should confirm what applies to your construction and GSM.
Which fabric is best for oversized streetwear hoodies?
A heavier brushed fleece, such as 3-end fleece at 350 to 420+ GSM, is the usual choice. It holds shape, adds visual weight and feels premium. French terry works for lighter, boxy fits in milder markets. Sample your pattern before committing to bulk.
What is loopback fleece?
Loopback fleece is another name for a knit with a flat face and loops on the back. If the loops are left unbrushed it is usually sold as French terry, and if they are brushed it becomes fleece. Confirm the finish in the spec to avoid mixed expectations.
Related guides: What is 3-end fleece? | Fleece fabric GSM guide | How to choose premium fleece manufacturers
