If you have seen "3 end fleece", "3-end fleece" or "3 thread fleece" on a tech pack and want to know exactly what it means, this guide covers it. We explain how the fabric is knitted, how brushed and unbrushed versions differ, the GSM range, the compositions Fawtex offers, where 3-end fleece suits a garment and where it does not, and what to write in your specification.
Key takeaways
- 3-end, 3-thread and three-yarn are regional names for the same fleece construction.
- The third yarn is what gives 3 end fleece its body, pile depth and warmth compared with 2-end.
- Fawtex 3-end fleece runs from 300 to 420+ GSM, in CVC blends and filament options.
- It is best for heavyweight hoodies, winter joggers and tracksuits, and the wrong choice for light summer garments.
- Always state construction, yarn counts, GSM, finish and tolerance in the tech pack. Recycled yarn can be specified.
What is 3 end fleece?
3 end fleece is a knitted fabric built from three yarns in each knitting cycle. One forms the smooth face, one binds the structure together and one, usually thicker, forms the fleece layer on the back. When the back is brushed, the fibres lift into a soft pile that traps air.
The name varies by region. Buyers in South Asia often say 3-thread or three-thread fleece, while some mills say three-yarn fleece. They describe the same construction. When you send a specification, add the yarn counts and GSM so that nothing depends on the name.
How 3-end fleece is knitted
The three yarns
- Face (ground) yarn: forms the smooth outer side of the fabric. Its count and fibre decide the look, print surface and pilling behaviour.
- Binding yarn: ties the fleece yarn into the structure so the pile does not pull out.
- Fleece yarn: a bulkier yarn that sits on the technical back. This is the layer that is brushed.
A coarse count such as 12s is often used for the fleece layer and a finer count such as 20s for the face, but the yarn plan differs by mill and by spec, so confirm it for your order.
Why the third yarn matters compared with 2-end
In a 2-end fleece, the structure uses two yarns, so there is less yarn mass on the back. A 3-end build adds that extra yarn, which allows a deeper pile, more weight and a firmer hand. That is why Fawtex lists 2-end at 240 to 320 GSM and 3-end at 300 to 420+ GSM. The ranges overlap around 300 to 320 GSM, so a heavy 2-end and a light 3-end can look similar on paper. Handfeel and pile depth are what separate them.
Brushed vs unbrushed 3 end fleece fabric
The finish changes how the same knit behaves. Fawtex lists three finish options for its fleece: brushed fleece, French terry loop and peach finish.
| Finish | What it does | Typical result |
|---|---|---|
| Brushed fleece | Raises the fibres on the back into a pile | Warmer, softer, more insulating |
| French terry loop | Leaves the back as unbrushed loops | Cooler, more breathable, flatter back |
| Peach finish | Lightly sands the face | Soft, slightly suede-like hand |
Brushed fleece is the standard for cold-weather garments. Unbrushed loops suit buyers who want the structure of a heavy knit with less insulation. For a full comparison, read 3-end fleece vs French terry.
Typical GSM range of 3 end fleece
GSM stands for grams per square metre. Fawtex 3-end fleece runs from 300 to 420+ GSM, which sits in the heavyweight fleece fabric category. To convert to ounces per square yard, divide GSM by 33.906.
| GSM | Ounces per sq yd | Typical positioning |
|---|---|---|
| 300 | 8.8 | Entry point for 3-end, midweight hoodies |
| 350 | 10.3 | Solid heavyweight hoodies and joggers |
| 400 | 11.8 | Heavyweight, winter and oversized styles |
| 420+ | 12.4+ | Top of the range, specify by sample |
For a deeper explanation of how weight is measured and why it can mislead, see our fleece fabric GSM guide.
Common 3 end fleece compositions
| Composition at Fawtex | Notes |
|---|---|
| 20s CVC 55/45 | Cotton-majority blend in a finer count, often suited to the face |
| 12s CVC 70/30 | Cotton-rich blend in a coarser count, which builds pile and weight |
| 75D/24F filament | Continuous filament yarn, specified for smoothness or strength |
CVC (chief value cotton) means the blend is mostly cotton with a polyester portion. Cotton-rich blends feel natural and take colour well. Polyester raises durability and shape retention. Where each yarn sits in the construction depends on the specification, so confirm the yarn plan with the mill. Compositions beyond those listed can be discussed against your spec.
Best uses for 3 end fleece, and where it is the wrong choice
Use 3 end fleece where warmth, body and a premium hand matter more than lightness:
- Heavyweight hoodies and sweatshirts, including oversized and streetwear fits.
- Winter joggers and tracksuits.
- Outerwear layers where a thick brushed back is useful.
- Uniform and workwear programmes in cold climates. The industries page lists the sectors Fawtex supplies.
It is usually the wrong choice for:
- Light summer sweatshirts or tropical markets, where a 2-end or loop build is easier to wear.
- Garments that need drape, such as fluid dresses.
- Activewear that depends on stretch and wicking, since a dense fleece traps heat.
- Very price-sensitive basics, where the extra yarn weight raises cost per garment.
What to check when you sample 3-end fleece
Because a heavy fleece hides problems until it is washed and sewn, check these points on the sample before approving bulk:
- Pile evenness. Look at the brushed back in raking light. Patchy brushing shows as uneven handfeel and shade.
- Face quality. Check the face for streaks, barre and surface fibres, especially on dark colours.
- Weight and width. Weigh a cut sample to confirm GSM, and measure width against your marker plan.
- Shrinkage and recovery. Wash and dry the sample as the garment will be handled, then measure length and width change.
- Pilling. Rub-test or wear-test the face and the back, since both surfaces matter in a hoodie.
How to specify 3-end fleece in a tech pack
A tech pack that says only "3 thread fleece" invites guesswork. Use this as a template:
| Field | What to write | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Construction | 3-end fleece, brushed or loop back | 3-end fleece, brushed back |
| Composition | Fibre blend and yarn counts | 20s CVC 55/45 face, 12s CVC 70/30 fleece |
| GSM | Target and tolerance, finished | 350 GSM, tolerance agreed in writing |
| Finish | Brushed, peach or loop | Brushed fleece |
| Width | Finished width, tubular or open | State per your cutting plan |
| Colour | Pantone reference | Pantone code, lab dip to approve |
| Shrinkage | Limits in length and width, and test method | Per buyer standard |
| Recycled content | Required share and proof | State if needed |
Send the filled-in sheet through the Fawtex contact page and you will normally receive a quote in 24 to 48 hours. For how quotes are built, see pricing.
Where recycled yarn fits in 3-end fleece
Fawtex makes recycled yarn commercially practical in its fleece range. If your programme needs recycled content, state the required share, the fibre it applies to and the documentation you need when you request a quote. Avoid claiming a fabric is fully recycled unless the supplier confirms it in writing. Read more on the recycled materials page.
Ordering 3 end fleece: tiers and lead times
Fawtex organises 3-end orders into sampling (300 to 1,000 kg, 10 to 14 days), commercial (1,000 to 5,000 kg, 18 to 22 days) and enterprise (5,000 to 20,000+ kg FCL, 25 to 35 days) tiers. Terms are FOB Karachi or CIF to Istanbul, Dubai, the UK, the US or Chittagong. Confirm the minimum for your colour and finish at the quote stage. Our guide to wholesale fleece fabric explains the tiers and shipping terms in full.
Frequently asked questions about 3 end fleece
What does 3-end mean in fleece?
In fleece, 3-end means the fabric is knitted with three yarns: a face yarn, a binding yarn and a thicker fleece yarn on the back. The third yarn adds pile depth, weight and warmth compared with a 2-end construction, which is why it is used for heavier garments.
Is 3-end fleece the same as 3-thread fleece?
Yes. 3-end fleece, 3-thread fleece and three-yarn fleece are different regional names for the same three-yarn construction. To avoid confusion, always add the yarn counts, GSM and finish to your specification so the supplier is not left interpreting the name.
Is 3-end fleece heavier and warmer than 2-end?
Generally yes. The extra yarn allows more weight and a deeper pile, and Fawtex lists 3-end at 300 to 420+ GSM against 240 to 320 for 2-end. Warmth also depends on the finish, so a brushed back insulates more than an unbrushed loop of the same weight.
What is the typical GSM of 3 end fleece?
At Fawtex, 3-end fleece typically ranges from 300 to 420+ GSM. Lighter versions suit midweight hoodies, while 350 GSM and above is used for heavyweight hoodies, winter joggers and oversized styles. State a target and a tolerance for finished GSM, not greige weight.
Can 3 end fleece be made with recycled yarn?
Yes, recycled yarn can be specified in 3-end fleece without changing the construction. Tell the supplier the share of recycled fibre and the documentation you need, and ask for the position in writing, since availability depends on the specification and the order size.
What is the difference between brushed and unbrushed 3-end fleece?
Brushed 3-end fleece has its back raised into a soft pile, which traps air and feels warmer. Unbrushed 3-end fleece leaves the loops intact, so it feels flatter, breathes better and looks like a heavy French terry. The knit is the same; the finish decides the result.
Related guides: 3-end fleece vs French terry | Fleece fabric GSM guide | Wholesale fleece fabric guide
