Fleece Fabric GSM Guide: Choosing the Right Weight for Hoodies, Joggers and Tracksuits

Wholesale fleece orders start with GSM, the number most often misread. This fleece fabric GSM guide shows how GSM is measured, which weight bands suit hoodies, joggers and tracksuits, why GSM alone can mislead, and how to state it in an RFQ so that a mill quotes the fabric you actually mean. It is written for garment factories, buying-house vendors and private-label brands ordering wholesale fleece.

Key takeaways

• GSM measures grams per square metre. Divide by 33.906 for ounces per square yard.
• Fawtex 2-end fleece runs 240 to 320 GSM and 3-end fleece 300 to 420+ GSM.
• Use around 240 to 320 GSM for lighter hoodies and joggers, and around 350 to 420+ GSM for heavyweight hoodies and winter pieces.
• Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel very different because of yarn count, density and finish.
• State GSM as a target with a tolerance, and say whether it is greige or finished weight.

What GSM is and how fleece fabric GSM is measured

GSM stands for grams per square metre. To measure it, cut a sample of known area, often 100 square centimetres, weigh it on a precision balance and scale up to one square metre. A 100 square centimetre sample weighing 3.5 g, for example, is 350 GSM. Always measure after the fabric has relaxed, and measure several points across the roll, because weight can vary across the width and along the length.

Fleece fabric GSM by garment

The bands below are practical starting points built on the Fawtex ranges: 240 to 320 GSM for 2-end fleece and 300 to 420+ GSM for 3 end fleece. Confirm the final choice with a sample in your pattern.

Hoodie fabric GSM and GSM for hoodies

For most hoodie ranges, the hoodie fabric GSM question comes down to positioning. A light hoodie for mild weather works around 240 to 280 GSM, a core hoodie around 280 to 320, and anything marketed as premium or heavy moves up into 3-end territory. Your GSM for hoodies should also account for the hood: a double-layer hood in heavyweight fleece adds bulk, so check the pattern.

Heavyweight hoodie GSM and 400 GSM fleece

There is no formal standard for heavyweight, but buyers commonly use the word for roughly 350 GSM and above. On heavyweight hoodie GSM, the 350 to 420+ band is where Fawtex 3-end fleece sits. A 400 GSM fleece equals about 11.8 ounces per square yard and gives a dense, substantial feel, though it also means more kilograms of fabric per garment. Test sewing and pressing on a sample, since thick fabric affects seam bulk, needle choice and machine settings, and check that cuffs and hem bands in the same weight still sit well.

Why fleece fabric GSM alone can mislead

Fleece fabric GSM describes mass, not construction. Three factors change how a fabric of the same GSM performs:

• Yarn count. A 320 GSM fabric made with coarse 12s yarn feels different from one made with finer 20s yarn, even though the weight matches.
• Density. A tight knit and a loose, bulky knit can weigh the same, but the tight knit is usually firmer and holds shape better.
• Finish. Brushing, peach finish and an unbrushed French terry loop change thickness, softness and warmth without necessarily changing weight.

That is why a specification should carry composition, yarn counts and finish alongside GSM. Our guide to what 3-end fleece is explains how the construction influences weight, and 3-end fleece vs French terry shows how finish changes the result.

GSM, season and warmth

Fleece fabric GSM is a rough guide to warmth, but not a rule. A brushed 300 GSM fleece usually feels warmer than an unbrushed 300 GSM loop because the pile traps air. As a general approach: choose 240 to 280 GSM for transitional seasons, 280 to 340 GSM for core cold-weather ranges and 350 GSM and above for deep winter or heavyweight statements. Remember that heavier fabric is also less breathable, which matters for garments worn indoors or in warm climates.

What fleece fabric GSM means for fabric consumption

Because fleece is usually bought by weight, GSM directly affects how far a kilogram goes. The figures below are illustrative, assuming a 1.5 m finished width:

A higher fleece fabric GSM therefore means fewer metres per kilogram and more kilograms per garment. When you compare quotes at different weights, convert price per kg into cost per garment first.

Tolerance, greige vs finished weight and shrinkage

A fleece fabric GSM number without a tolerance leaves room for dispute. Many buyers work to around plus or minus 5 per cent, though the right figure depends on your customer's standard. Agree it in writing. Also agree the weight basis:

• Greige weight is measured before dyeing and finishing.
• Finished weight is measured after dyeing, brushing and relaxing, and is what your garment will actually use.

Finishing can move the number. Dyeing and relaxation can shrink the fabric and raise GSM, while brushing can remove some surface fibre. Specify finished GSM and agree shrinkage limits in length and width with the test method, so the weight you approve is the weight you receive.

How to state GSM in an RFQ

Write fleece fabric GSM as a target, a tolerance and a basis. For example: "3-end fleece, 350 GSM finished, tolerance as agreed, brushed back, 20s CVC 55/45 face." Add width, Pantone colours, quantity and terms. Fawtex quotes within 24 to 48 hours of receiving a complete spec. To see how pricing is built around GSM and quantity, read the wholesale fleece pricing page, and for tiers and shipping terms see our wholesale fleece fabric guide.

GSM to oz/yd2 conversion table

Divide GSM by 33.906 to get ounces per square yard. Common fleece weights convert as follows:

Frequently asked questions about fleece fabric GSM

What GSM is a heavyweight hoodie?

There is no formal standard, but buyers commonly call a hoodie heavyweight at roughly 350 GSM and above. Fawtex 3-end fleece covers 300 to 420+ GSM, so heavyweight hoodies sit in its upper range. Confirm the target with a sample and state a tolerance.

What GSM is 3 end fleece?

Fawtex 3-end fleece runs from 300 to 420+ GSM, compared with 240 to 320 GSM for 2-end fleece. The ranges overlap around 300 to 320, so handfeel, pile depth and yarn counts help decide between a heavy 2-end and a light 3-end.

How do I convert GSM to ounces per square yard?

Divide GSM by 33.906. For example, 350 GSM is about 10.3 ounces per square yard, and 400 GSM is about 11.8. To go the other way, multiply ounces per square yard by 33.906. Use the table above for common fleece weights.

Does a higher GSM mean better quality?

No. A higher GSM means a heavier fabric, not a better one. Quality depends on yarn, knit density, finishing, shrinkage and shade control. Choose fleece fabric GSM to suit the garment and season, then judge quality on sample performance, wash results and consistency across reorders.

What GSM is best for winter joggers?

Winter joggers commonly use around 320 to 380 GSM, in a heavy 2-end or a 3-end fleece with a brushed back. Lighter fabric suits all-season joggers. Always test fit and drape at your target weight on a sample before you release bulk fabric.

How can I check the GSM of a fleece sample?

Cut a known area, such as 100 square centimetres, weigh it on a precision balance and multiply to one square metre. Measure at several points on the sample, after the fabric has relaxed, and compare the average with the agreed target and tolerance.

Related guides: What is 3-end fleece? | 3-end fleece vs French terry | How to choose premium fleece manufacturers