Colour is a common cause of disputes on dyed fleece, and almost all of them trace back to an approval that was vague. This guide explains how a lab dip works for fleece fabric, why fleece behaves differently from flat knits, what to send and agree, and how to avoid surprises between the approved colour and the bulk. It is a practical companion to our guide on how to choose premium fleece manufacturers.
Key takeaways
- A lab dip is approved before bulk dyeing. Treat the sealed approval as the contract for colour.
- Brushing, fibre blend and recycled content can all change how a colour looks and repeats on fleece.
- Send a Pantone TCX reference, a physical swatch where possible, and name the light source.
- Agree shade tolerance and dye-lot rules in writing before the order is released.
- Fawtex lists Pantone lab-dip colour matching and a typical 10 to 14 day sampling lead time; confirm lab dip turnaround in your quote.
What a lab dip is, and how it differs from a strike-off
A lab dip is a small-scale dyeing trial on your fabric or a close match, made to reproduce a target colour. The mill dyes a swatch, records the recipe and sends it to you. Once you sign it off, that recipe is scaled up for bulk dyeing.
A strike-off is a different thing. The term varies by mill, but it commonly means a sample showing a printed design or a larger piece produced closer to production conditions. A lab dip answers one question: is this the right colour? A strike-off or production sample answers whether the finished fabric behaves as expected. Do both before releasing a wholesale fleece order.
Why fleece needs its own lab dip advice
Brushing changes apparent depth of shade
Brushing raises the fibres on the back into a pile, and a raised surface scatters light differently from a flat one. The same dye can look lighter or softer on a brushed surface than on an unbrushed swatch. If your swatch is flat but the garment shows a brushed face or fleece inside, ask for a dip on the final finish, or approve at the finished stage.
CVC blends and dye behaviour
Fleece often uses cotton and polyester blends, such as the CVC and polyester-cotton compositions in the 2-end fleece and 3-end fleece ranges. Cotton and polyester take different dyes, so the shade of a blend depends on how both fibres are coloured. That makes blend ratio part of the colour specification. Do not move the same Pantone reference from a cotton-rich blend to a polyester-rich blend and expect the same result.
Recycled yarn and shade consistency
Recycled yarn can carry slight natural variation in base colour and fibre, which can show up when you need an identical shade across lots. Fawtex makes recycled yarn commercially practical in its fleece, so it is worth asking how base-colour variation is managed and whether shade repeats across reorders. Read more on the recycled materials page.
The lab dip approval process, step by step
Step 1: send a clear colour brief
| Item | What to send | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Colour reference | Pantone TCX code (Textile Cotton eXtended) | A shared numerical reference |
| Physical swatch | A fabric or yarn swatch if you have one | Pantone codes alone can look different on fleece |
| Light source | The illuminant you will judge under, for example daylight | Colours can match under one light and differ under another |
| Fabric details | Construction, composition, GSM and finish | Dye behaviour depends on the fabric |
| Tolerance | Acceptable shade difference, agreed in writing | Sets the pass or fail line |
Step 2: review the options
Mills often return several options, commonly labelled A, B and C, with small shifts in shade. Compare them with your reference under the agreed light, and again in the light your retailer will use. Choose one option, or ask for a correction, and record your choice in writing. Colour judged only on a screen is unreliable.
Step 3: approve and seal the standard
Approve in writing, quoting the swatch number or recipe code. The mill keeps its sealed copy and you keep yours. Later disputes are settled against that sealed standard, not against memory or a photo.
Lab dip timelines
Fawtex lists a typical 10 to 14 day lead time for the sampling tier (300 to 1,000 kg), and 18 to 22 days for commercial orders. Confirm how many days a dip itself takes, and how many rounds are included, in your quote. Build in your own review time, because delays at approval move every later date. If you are sourcing at scale, see the wholesale fleece pricing page for how tiers and quotes work.
Common colour problems on fleece, and how to prevent them
- Matching under one light only. A colour can match in the mill and fail in a retail store. Agree the light source and check under a second one.
- Approving from a screen or a printout. Always approve from a physical swatch.
- Changing the fabric after approval. A new yarn count, blend or finish needs a new approval, because the colour will not carry across.
- Mixed lots in one order. Ask the mill to dye as few lots as practical, and keep garment panels from one lot together in cutting.
- Late approvals. Approve every colour before release, or split the order so approved colours are not held up by one slow sign-off.
Shade tolerance and dye-lot variation
A dye lot is the batch of fabric dyed together. Shade can differ slightly between lots, and between rolls in one lot. Agree the rules in writing before bulk dyeing. Premium fleece manufacturers will put these terms in the order without being pushed:
- Tolerance. Many buyers express acceptable difference as a colour difference value, such as Delta E, with the number set by your customer's standard. Agree the method and the figure.
- Lots. Ask whether your quantity will be dyed in as few lots as practical, and how cross-lot variation is managed.
- Rolls. Specify that rolls are inspected for shade variation, and how an out-of-tolerance roll is handled.
- Reorders. Ask how the approved standard is stored so a later order can be matched to the first.
Colourfastness is a separate question. Fawtex's pricing page references colourfastness, but do not treat any grade as a guarantee until it is confirmed for your spec. Ask for the target grade and the test method in the order.
Where black shades and recycled materials fit
Black is often the highest-volume colour in fleece. Fawtex's recycled materials page mentions recycled textile clips such as black PC, and some programmes build dark shades from material that already carries colour. Whether that suits your specification, and how shade holds across lots, should be confirmed with Fawtex rather than assumed. Good premium fleece manufacturers answer this kind of question with specifics, not reassurance.
Colour approval checklist
| Check | Done |
|---|---|
| Pantone TCX reference and physical swatch supplied | [ ] |
| Light source for judging colour agreed | [ ] |
| Construction, composition, GSM and finish stated | [ ] |
| Swatch reviewed under the agreed light | [ ] |
| One option approved in writing, with the swatch number | [ ] |
| Sealed standard held by both sides | [ ] |
| Shade tolerance and test method agreed | [ ] |
| Dye-lot and roll rules agreed | [ ] |
| Colourfastness target and test method stated | [ ] |
| Bulk dyeing released only after sign-off | [ ] |
Frequently asked questions about lab dip approval
What is a lab dip?
A lab dip is a small dyed swatch made to reproduce a target colour on your fabric or a close match. The mill records the recipe, you approve it in writing, and that recipe is scaled up for bulk dyeing.
How long does lab dip approval take?
It depends on the mill and on your review time. Fawtex lists 10 to 14 days for the sampling tier, but confirm the lab dip turnaround and the number of rounds in your quote. Quick, written feedback from your side is the biggest time saver.
Does brushing change the colour of fleece?
Yes, it can. A brushed surface scatters light differently from a flat one, so the same dye can look lighter or softer. Approve colour on the final finish where possible, and state the finish clearly when you send the colour brief.
How many lab dips can I request?
The number of rounds should be stated in your quote, so confirm it before you start. Each extra round adds days, so send a clear Pantone reference and a physical swatch with the first request to reduce the number of rounds you need.
What shade difference is acceptable between dye lots?
There is no single figure. Many buyers set a limit using a colour difference value such as Delta E, with the number driven by the customer's standard. Agree the method and the limit in writing before bulk dyeing, and inspect rolls against the sealed standard.
Can you match Pantone on cotton and polyester fleece?
Fawtex lists Pantone lab-dip colour matching. Pantone TCX references are cotton based, and blends and bright shades can sit slightly differently, so expect the closest achievable match and confirm it on a swatch. Always approve it in writing before bulk dyeing starts.
Related guides: How to choose premium fleece manufacturers | Wholesale fleece fabric guide | 3-end fleece vs French terry
